Let's Eat

This woman has never liked to cook.  And fortunately, we have come to the right place. 

For those willing to spend the money, there are food options galore and all pretty reasonably priced.  And if you don’t want to go out (which we usually don’t because of the terrible traffic) we can order on the GLOVO app and have it delivered by bike or boda in 30 – 45 minutes for about $2.00.

Our favorite food spots include Italian, Lebanese, Indian, Thai and Ethiopian food as well as cafes with salads and burgers.  There’s even a vegan restaurant with really healthy veggie/fruit options (Scott has yet to try this place.)

Travelers are ususally told not to drink beverages with ice or have fresh salads or veggies.  Although there are no “food handlers” classes here, we’ve found that all the restaurants we frequent are “safe” for visitors and we’ve rarely had stomach issues.  At the same time, we do discourage friends from eating “street meat” or anything sold on the side of the road. Western stomachs are a bit more sensitive and its not really worth the risk for short term visitors!

Kampala has so many international food options but beyond these higher-end restaurants, and once you get out of town, we are limited mainly to a Ugandan menu. These food options are pretty predictable.  When we are asked how we like local food, Scott’s answer is always, “How many Ugandan restaurants have you found in the US or on your international travels?”  We know your answer.

The challenge with local cuisine is that if consists mainly of starches – potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, cassava, beans, chapati, matoke (steamed mashed bananas), plantains, posha/Ugali (semi-hard cornmeal porridge), along with overcooked veggies (cauliflower, carrots, beans, peppers, onions) and stringy meat.  Depending on who you talk to, meat preferences are goat, chicken, beef (in that order) or pork, chicken and goat.  If dessert is served – its pineapple and watermelon – always the bright spot of the meal.

On the flip side, any food here is relatively healthy and fresh.  Everything is “free range” with no pesticides, antibiotics or GMO’s.  When you go to the fruit/veggie stand, you ask the vendor for a pineapple you will eat today or tomorrow.  Depending on your request, you’ll get a different pineapple.  It is always EXCELLENT.  

Beef is usually exceptionally good.  No masked flavors and it is really surprising that this savory flavor comes from such very skinny cows.  Eggs here don’t need to be refrigerated as they as they leave on the “cuticle” or protective coating which is washed off in the US.  They simply need to be stored at room temperature.

Coffee and tea are all grown locally. Endiro Coffee even employs an all deaf staff at one of their locations which is a remarkable investment in an overlooked population in Uganda. Our two current legal fellows know sign language which makes for a lovely connection when we visit for lunch.

The rolex is a staple for working class Ugandans.  It is made streetside with a fresh chipati rolled up with egg and veggies.  Its kind of the “to go” food option and sadly there’s been a bit of a crisis since the beginning of the Ukraine war.  The wheat flour for the chapati is one of a few food staples imported and when the war started, flour prices doubled. This translated to a significant hike in rolex prices and really hit the average Ugandan.  The story was all over local papers for weeks!

As much as we are able to enjoy ample food options, we are always reminded that not all Ugandans have the same access to good and plentiful food.  There is a significant scarcity mindset, even among the wealthiest folks we meet.  At any conference or buffet with local friends, they PILE their plates with enough food for a week.  These are not people without means.  But when you are surrounded by such significant poverty, its easy to imagine that there may be no food tomorrow.  

It is also sobering to remember that our $2.00 food delivery fee is often 25 to 50% the delivery guy’s salary for the day.

Today and everyday we are grateful for enough food and pray for plenty for those around us. 

Fancy Ugandan wedding food (left) and catered Ugandan prison lunch for visitors (Rt.)

Prisoners get meat only one - two days a year.